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I'm now in south India, without bike, for a couple of weeks' exploring. Varkala is a very touristy beach resort (pic) just north of Trivandrum, in the laid-back state of Kerala. After four weeks of Sri Lankan curry, I was desperate for crunchy salads, pizza and fruit breakfasts – all things that Varkala's excellent clifftop restaurants provide cheaply and tastily. The clifftop path also abounds in eagles and kingfishers – the former wheeling around on the thermals startlingly close to you, the latter chilled and in bottles.
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